𦴠Step 1: Choose the Right Toy for Your Puppyâs Age
Puppy Age
What to Look For
Avoid
Under 12 weeks
Soft, flexible toys; plush comfort toys; small teething rings
Hard rubber, nylon, or bones
3â6 months
Puppy-specific chew toys, teething KONGs, small puzzle toys
Toys labeled âfor adultsâ or rawhide
6â12 months
Durable rubber toys, treat puzzles, ropes for tug
Anything too small or easily shredded
đĄ Vet Tech Tip: When in doubt, choose a toy made specifically for puppies â theyâre designed to protect developing teeth and gums.
đ§ Step 2: Match the Toy to Your Puppyâs Breed & Play Style
â Retrievers / Active Breeds: Fetch toys, tennis balls, tug ropes â Toy Breeds: Small plush toys, mini chew rings, soft KONGs â Herding Breeds: Puzzle feeders, toys that move or challenge the mind â Power Chewers (Bulldogs, Labs): Benebone Puppy Chew, IndestructiBone, thick rubber toys
đĄ Vet Tech Tip: The toy should be too big to swallow and tough enough to handle your dogâs bite strength.
𧸠Step 3: Inspect Toys Regularly
â Check daily for tears, missing pieces, or sharp edges â Wash toys weekly â use warm soapy water or toss soft toys in the wash â Replace toys once they become rough, cracked, or small enough to swallow
đĄ Vet Tech Tip: Rotate toys weekly to keep your puppyâs interest high and prevent overuse.
đž Step 4: Supervise Playtime
Always supervise your puppy, especially with new toys
Remove toys when you leave home if they can be torn apart
Offer a mix of toys â one for chewing, one for comfort, and one for mental stimulation
đĄ Vet Tech Tip: Every dog plays differently â watch your puppyâs habits and adjust accordingly!
đ All personally recommended by a certified veterinary technician with 20+ years of experience.
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Please note, this article contains affiliate links, where I will receive compensation if you buy the product, without any extra cost to you.
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You should also note that the information provided is for educational and informational purposes only. Although I am a veterinary professional, this blog should not be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
If youâve got a new puppy at home, you already know how much they love to chew â on toys, socks, shoes, and sometimes, even your fingers! đž Itâs part of how they explore their world and soothe teething discomfort. But not all chews are safe for young pups.
As a certified veterinary technician, I often get asked: đ âShould I give my puppy a bully stick or rawhide?â
Letâs go over the differences and whatâs safest for those sharp little puppy teeth.
𦴠Whatâs the Difference?
Bully Sticks are made from 100% beef muscle (usually the pizzle). Theyâre high in protein, fully digestible, and soften as your puppy chews.
Rawhide is made from the inner layer of animal hides (often cowhide). Even when made in the USA, rawhide tends to be tougher, less digestible, and can pose a choking or blockage risk if swallowed in chunks.
So while both satisfy your pupâs chewing instinct, they behave very differently in the body.
đž Why Bully Sticks Are Usually the Better Choice
Safer to Digest
Puppiesâ digestive systems are still developing. Bully sticks break down naturally in the stomach, while rawhide often does not. If your puppy swallows a piece of rawhide, it can expand and cause a serious blockage.
Gentler on Puppy Teeth
Because bully sticks soften as your pup chews, theyâre less likely to cause tooth fractures or gum irritation. Rawhide, on the other hand, stays firm and can be too hard for sensitive baby teeth.
Single Ingredient, No Fillers
A good-quality bully stick is made from one ingredient â beef. Many rawhides, even those made in the U.S., go through extra processing or are treated with flavorings.
Perfect for Short Chew Sessions
Puppies shouldnât chew for hours on end â their jaws and teeth are still growing. A short session with a bully stick (10â15 minutes) is plenty, and you can refrigerate the stick to reuse later.
â ď¸ When to Wait or Supervise
Even with bully sticks, supervision is essential. Always watch your puppy while they chew, and remove the stick when it gets small enough to swallow.
Also, wait until your puppy is at least 12 weeks old before introducing any hard chews. Younger pups may benefit from softer teething toys or frozen washcloths instead.
đś Bottom Line
For most puppies, bully sticks are the safer, gentler choice compared to rawhide. Theyâre digestible, natural, and satisfying â as long as you supervise and limit chewing time.
If your pup is still teething, you can alternate between bully sticks and softer teething toys to protect those baby teeth while keeping them happily occupied.
Your puppyâs chewing stage wonât last forever â but giving them the right chew can make it a lot easier (and less destructive)! đ
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Please note, this article contains affiliate links, where I will receive compensation if you buy the product, without any extra cost to you.
***
You should also note that the information provided is for educational and informational purposes only. Although I am a veterinary professional, this blog should not be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
If your pet is experiencing a medical problem or concern, please contact a veterinary health professional immediately.
If youâve ever brought home a new puppy or even an older rescue, you know how overwhelming those first few weeks can be. Thereâs excitement, of course â but also a bit of chaos! One tool that can make life easier for both you and your dog is crate training.
As a certified veterinary technician with over 20 years of experience, I can tell you: when done right, crate training isnât about punishment â itâs about safety, comfort, and peace of mind. Letâs talk about how to make the process smooth, positive, and effective for your pup.
Understand Why Crate Training Helps
A crate gives your dog their own cozy âden.â Itâs a place to relax, nap, and feel secure â especially when the house gets busy.
Beyond comfort, crate training helps with: â Housebreaking: Dogs naturally avoid going where they sleep. A crate helps them learn bladder control. â Safety: Keeps your pup out of trouble when you canât supervise. â Travel: Crates make car rides and vet visits less stressful. â Emergency prep: If you ever need to evacuate or board your pet, being crate-trained can literally make things safer and easier.
Think of it like a bedroom for your dog â a safe space thatâs always theirs.
Choosing the right crate is the first step to success. Youâll want one thatâs just big enough for your dog to stand up, turn around, and lie down comfortably â but not so big that they can use one side as a âbathroom.â
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Here are the most common types:
đ Wire crates: Great for ventilation and visibility; many come with dividers that grow with your puppy.
đž Soft-sided crates: Lightweight and cozy for calm, crate-trained dogs.
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I have recently written an article about the difference between wire and plastic crates. If you are interested, you can check it out right here.
Add a comfy blanket, a soft bed, and maybe a favorite toy â make it feel like home! You have to be careful about what you add in your dog’s crate. Because of this, I wrote a whole blog post on it. You can check it out right here.
Introduce the Crate Slowly and Positively
Donât just put your dog in the crate and shut the door â thatâs a recipe for anxiety. Instead, make the crate a happy, rewarding place:
Leave the door open and toss in a few treats or toys.
Feed meals near (or even inside) the crate to build a positive association.
Praise and reward your dog every time they explore it on their own.
At first, keep the door open while your dog relaxes inside. Gradually close it for short periods, always keeping the experience calm and upbeat.
Patience is key â crate training isnât a race!
Stick to a Schedule
Consistency helps dogs understand what to expect. Puppies especially need frequent potty breaks, playtime, and naps.
Try this rhythm:
Morning: Potty break, breakfast, and short crate nap.
Keep crate time reasonable â no long confinements during the day for young pups. Remember, the crate is a comfort zone, not a time-out space.
Handle Whining the Right Way
Some whining is normal at first â your dog may just be adjusting. But resist the urge to let them out immediately when they whine, or theyâll learn that noise = freedom.
Instead:
Wait until thereâs a brief quiet moment before opening the crate.
Reward calm behavior with gentle praise or a treat.
Make sure all their needs (potty, water, exercise) are met before crate time.
If your dogâs whining feels excessive or anxious, you may be moving too fast. Take a step back and slow down the training.
Never Use the Crate as Punishment
This is one of the biggest mistakes I see. The crate should never feel like a âbad place.â
If your dog gets sent there as punishment, it destroys the sense of safety youâre trying to build. Instead, use the crate for rest, quiet time, and comfort â not discipline.
When used properly, most dogs come to love their crate. Youâll often find them curling up inside on their own, even when the door is open.
đś Final Thoughts: Crate Training Builds Confidence
Crate training is one of the best gifts you can give your dog. It creates structure, safety, and trust â and it makes your life as a pet parent a whole lot easier.
Remember: patience, praise, and consistency are your best tools. In time, your dog will see their crate not as confinement, but as their favorite little home within your home. đ
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Please note, this article contains affiliate links, where I will receive compensation if you buy the product, without any extra cost to you.
***
You should also note that the information provided is for educational and informational purposes only. Although I am a veterinary professional, this blog should not be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
If your pet is experiencing a medical problem or concern, please contact a veterinary health professional immediately.
If youâre potty training a new puppy, caring for a senior pet, or managing life with an indoor-only dog, pee pads are probably already part of your daily routine. But at some point, youâve likely asked yourself: Should I stick with disposable pads, or try the washable kind? Both have their perksâand their downsidesâand which one works best really comes down to your lifestyle, your dogâs habits, and how much laundry youâre willing to do.
Disposable pee pads are definitely the most convenient option. You just lay one down, toss it when itâs used, and grab another. No scrubbing, no washing, no waiting for the dryer to finish. Theyâre great for quick cleanup, perfect for travel or crates, and ideal for pet parents who donât want to deal with extra laundry. But hereâs the tradeoff: over time, constantly buying new pads adds upâand theyâre not exactly eco-friendly, especially if youâre using several a day.
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Washable pee pads, on the other hand, are reusable and more environmentally conscious. Most come in multi-packs, so while oneâs in the wash, another is ready to go. Theyâre usually larger and more absorbent than disposables, which can be great for larger breeds or overnight use. The downside? Youâll need to rinse or wash them regularly (and letâs be realâno one loves washing pee pads). Still, if your dog uses them consistently in the same spot, and youâve got a laundry routine down, they can save you quite a bit of money in the long run.
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So which oneâs better? If you want quick, hassle-free cleanup with no laundry involvedâespecially during the early stages of trainingâdisposable pee pads are probably your best friend. But if your dog is on a more predictable potty schedule, or youâre in it for the long haul, washable pads could save you money and reduce waste.
Still canât decide? Try starting with bothâuse disposables when life gets hectic, and keep a few washable ones for regular use. It doesnât have to be all or nothing, and your future self (and your floors) will thank you.
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Please note, this article contains affiliate links, where I will receive compensation if you buy the product, without any extra cost to you.
***
You should also note that the information provided is for educational and informational purposes only. Although I am a veterinary professional, this blog should not be used as a substitute for professional veterinary advice.
If your pet is experiencing a medical problem or concern, please contact a veterinary health professional immediately.